2021 Meth`Imon “L” Limniona, Dougos Winery

Dougos winery was founded in 1991 by Thanos and Louiza Dougos. Thanos is the viticulturist and Louiza is the winemaker and together they make wines from indigenous Greek varieties as well as blends with international grapes. They also operate one of Greece's oldest vine nurseries, which was established in 1950. Production is small, peaking at around 70,000 bottles per year. The winery is located in the Tempi Valley, on the foothills of Mt. Olympus, in what constitutes the PDO Rapsani, in the Thessaly region. The vineyards are planted in iron-rich schist soils at altitudes of 450-700 meters. These soils are poor and the iron content is important as it helps regulate the water capacity of the soil. The vineyards are cultivated without the use of irrigation, at low yields, and are certified organic.

The wines are very true to their origin and are always elegant, refined and expressive, and never dominated by new oak. In fact, the 300l barrels used (Acacia for the Assyrtiko and French/American oak for the reds) are always only lightly or not at all toasted, in order to not overpower the intricate qualities of the varieties. The main varieties cultivated here are the indigenous Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Krasato, Stavroto, and Limniona. The last three varieties are local to Thessaly. By law, Rapsani PDO wines must be a blend of Xinomavro, Krasato and Stavroto. The two local varieties (Xinomavro has its home in Macedonia) are used to tame the rustic, tannic character of Xinomavro, which makes for more supple and approachable wines, though never at the expense of character or structure.

Accolades

• Julia Harding for Jancis Robinson 17 points

A little darker than the 2020 and noticeably riper smelling and more perfumed, altogether more seductive with deep notes of cherry fruit. Deliciously scented. On the palate, too, it is richer and more rounded, the tannins firmer and yet polished and fine-grained. This is so different from the 2020, not necessarily better but with more depth of fruit and probably with longer ageing potential. Even with this slightly riper fruit profile, the acidity is crisp and refreshing, balanced by the rich fruit core. A really lovely, refined Limniona. Drink 2026 – 2033.' Julia Harding